Gallagher: Editor-in-Chef

gallagher x 480 lo res

Lunching in chi-chi Moro, Islington, Guido had the crab brik with harissa (£9.00) followed by the lamb with hispi cabbage and crispy capers, piquillo sauce and lentils (£19.50), Neo-Guido had the wood roasted pork with smoked almond sauce, wilted escarole and black beans (£19.00) which we washed down with a couple of bottles of Viña Gravonia Crianza (Viura) Lopez de Heredia ’03 (£42.50). The crab was light, the lamb was pink and the only complaint from the dining companions was that the portions weren’t big enough. When the waiter was asked for a recommendation he said “it’s your lunch”. Though his guidance on the wine was faultless.

Mid-lunch Guido’s phone buzzed with a tweet referencing @GuidoFawkes by one of their junior kitchen staff saying we were dining at the restaurant. A star-struck faux pas that will surely turn off other more publicity-shy celebrity diners. Guido was popping to the loo round the back when he bumped into Tony Gallagher, former editor of The Telegraph, in his kitchen whites. Fifty this year, Tony is learning a new trade and had spent the morning peeling artichokes, “lots of them”. He told Guido that the kitchen at Moro is run on very democratic lines and there is no shouting. This will be a change in working environment for him.

For dessert we had a satisfying Gallagher Malaga raisin ice cream  (£6.50) with two spoons. “Don’t be nasty” pleaded the former tyrant of The Telegraph newsroom nervously as he sportingly posed for his picture. As if…




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